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Ninth-generation winemaker Dominique Portet chose the cool climate of aptly named Coldstream in the Yarra Valley as home to the eponymous winery he founded in 2000. It was the culmination of a tenacious search for grape growing terroir to rival that of his native Bordeaux – but also the start of a new chapter in a winemaking story that has its roots in France in the early 1700s. Now son Ben – generation 10 – heads the winemaking team, firmly observing the central tenets of this young yet historic estate: respect for tradition, understanding of site and an open mind towards contemporary practices that shape wines that are ever more refined and delicious.
The grapes for this traditional-method sparkling came from two elevated vineyards (250m) in the Upper Yarra. Both sites have benefited from very good growing conditions over recent vintages, with abundant warm days, cool nights and very little rain. This has allowed the fruit to ripen gradually with excellent flavour development and balanced sugars and acids.
The grapes were handpicked, gently pressed and fermented before going through secondary fermentation in bottle. The wine was then aged for two years in our cool, temperature-controlled cellars, then disgorged and given a light dosage prior to release.
From a mature site in the Upper Yarra Valley, the vines grow on volcanic red soils on a steep, fast-draining slope at an altitude of 250m. The elevation makes for cooler growing conditions compared with the valley floor, slowing the ripening process, which allows for intense, complex aromas and flavours to develop. The cool nights increase the ripening period and help the grapes retain vital acidity for freshness and drive. The cool weather and frequent rains throughout the year saw the fruit have plenty of freshness and acidity to produce a contemporary style of Chardonnay with elegance and vitality.
The hand-picked fruit was gently pressed in whole bunches to tank and then fermented in French oak puncheons (25% new). The cool, wet year ensured we had plenty crisp acidity and purity with lots of citrus characters and drive. To help accentuate weight and mouthfeel, we allowed the wine to go through a slightly higher than usual amount of malolactic fermentation (35%) - helping us soften acidity while adding complexity and depth. After ten months of barrel ageing with a proportion of less stirring to add more weight and texture, the wine was transferred to tank for two months for settling before we bottled it.
With a constant eye on the skies and the vineyards, our decision to pick early had us produce a Chardonnay with freshness and poise, showing bright fruit, plenty of lime, citrus characters and saline-like minerality. Lees stirring and a good proportion going through malo in French oak added pleasant hazelnut and spice notes. The restrained nature of this vintage would benefit from a bit of time in the cellar to integrate and broaden slightly.
In true Provence fashion, this wine is a pretty, light pink-bronze colour. On the nose, there’s a lifted Peach Melba aroma, with a strawberry compote addition. It has an attractive, gentle texture. Fine natural acidity draws out the palate to a moreish finish.
Classic Yarra style of Bordeaux blends - restrained and fruit driven with fine tannins, drinkability and elegance.
This excellent vintage allowed us to really showcase the structure and flavour spectrum we are capable of achieving in the Yarra Valley. Everything came into balance - The fruit is dark, brooding and mouth coating; the tannins are svelte and long; the acidity is clean and refreshing. It all intertwines seamlessly, to give us a wine we consider to be bright, detailed, elegant and fine.
One could say that’s it was classic Yarra, in character - dark and brooding with great colour yet bright fruit with lovely white pepper, spice notes and lifted fragrance.
The Cabernet is classic Yarra Valley - medium-bodied and elegant, exuding red berry fruits like raspberries and plums and makes up 60% of the blend. The 40% Malbec adds dark plum character and a pleasant garrigue complexity to the wine.
Dominique Portet got his first whiff of wine at one of the world’s most illustrious wine properties: Château Lafite-Rothschild. It was here in Pauillac that his father, André Portet, served as régisseur (vineyard & winery manager). Dominique went on to earn his stripes at Montpellier University of Oenology before perking up morale as wine-buying adviser during compulsory military service. He later spent vintages in the Médoc, Rhône Valley, Provence and with Champagne giant Moët et Chandon, as well as in the Napa Valley at his brother Bernard’s Clos du Val estate.
"I found fragrance and structure – most of all the structure reminds me of Bordeaux. The Yarra has a charm, a beauty that engulfs you. The wines are worldly."
Since 1976 he has been a pioneer of the renaissance of Australia’s cool-climate wine industry, founding renowned sparkling wine house Taltarni in the Pyrenees and Clover Hill in Tasmania.
In 2000 he embarked on his greatest adventure: the Dominique Portet winery in the Yarra Valley.
Ninth-generation winemaker Dominique Portet chose the cool climate of aptly named Coldstream in the Yarra Valley as home to the eponymous winery he founded in 2000.
It was the culmination of a tenacious search for grapegrowing terroir to rival that of his native Bordeaux – but also the start of a new chapter in a winemaking story that has its roots in France in the early 1700s.
Now son Ben – generation 10 – heads the winemaking team, firmly observing the central tenets of this young yet historic estate: respect for tradition, understanding of site and an open mind towards contemporary practices that shape wines that are ever more refined and delicious.
ABN: 69 167 820 304
LC: 57703324
